The main tourist destination in Myanmar is Bagan, capital of the first Myanmar Empire, one of the richest archaeological sites in South East Asia. Situated on the eastern bank of the Ayeyawaddy River. It is reached by 90 minutes flight from Yangon. Bagan was the capital of the first unified empire of King Anawrahta and was founded in 849 AD. After unifying the country, Anawrahta accomplished another noble deed for the country. Numerous pagodas and temples were built with the flourishing of Buddhism around 1057 AD. Myanmar Empire, Bagan covers an area of 42 sq km containing over 2000well-preserved pagodas and temples of the 11th to 13th century.
Shwezigon Pagoda
The graceful bell shape of Shwezigon Stupa, situated four miles northeast of Old Bagan is a prototype for later stupas of Myanmar. It was built in the mid 11th century. Two great kings, Anawrahta (1044 – 1077) and Kyansittha (1084 – 1113), are associated with the construction of this massive pagoda. It was first built by King Anawrahta who was able to finish only three terraces before he died. King Kyansittha took up the task of completing the unfinished pagoda begun by his father. In 1089, only in the reign of King Kyansittha, the pagoda was completed. According to historical accounts, King Anawrahta had requested a copy of the Tooth Relic from Sri Lanka. When the relic arrived by royal barge at the shore of Bagan, the King himself descended neck-deep into the river to receive it. Then he carried the Relic to the forepart of his palace and installed it there for his private worship. Shin Arahan, a missionary monk from Thaton, advised the king that for the benefit of men, devas and brahmas, he should build a pagoda and enshrine the Relic within it so that it might be worshipped for as long as the Sasana prevails in the world. Accepting this advice, the king placed the Relic on the back of his white elephant and set the animal free with this oath, “May my white elephant bow down at the spot where the Tooth Relic wishes to reside”. And the king enshrined the Tooth Relic on the sand bank where the white elephant had bowed its head and there began to build a pagoda. Chronicles describe that Holly Tooth, Collar – Bone and other Relics of Buddha are enshrined in the pagoda. The stupa sits on three rising terraces. Enameled plaques in panels around the base of the stupa illustrate scenes of the previous lives of the Buddha. At the cardinal points, facing the terrace stairways, are four shrines where each of which houses a 4m high bronze standing Buddha cast in 1102. These figures are Bagan’s largest surviving bronze Buddhas. The pagoda festival is held annually in October and November. It lasts for several days during-which one can find food stalls, fun-fairs, shops selling local products, dance, theatrical shows, magic shows, puppet shows and so on. Usually the whole week is devoted to the celebration of the pagoda festival and it is very lively because a great number of pilgrims from all parts of the country come to the festival.
Anada Temple
Anada Temple is an ancient Buddhist temple. It was built in around 1091 by King Kyansittha of the Bagan Dynasty. The temple is considered as the most beautiful and dignified temple in Myanmar, which represents the infinite wisdom of the Buddha. This sacred temple is also a huge museum, which is decorated by statuary, stone, wood carvings, metal, terracotta, etc.
Thatbyinnyu Temple
Thatbyinnyu Temple, the highest temple in Bagan, rises to 66 meters, standing proudly on the plain and is located just inside the southeastern corner of the old city wall. It was built by King Alaungsithu in the middle of 15th century. Lengthy corridors and chambers within the temple are worth exploring. And the flamboyant doorways are also worth a snap. This temple represents a transition from the Mon period to a new architectural style that would soon be followed at the Sulamani, the Gawdawpalin, and at the Htilominlo Temple. The temple itself reflected that era’s innovative architectural and artistic creativity. Thatbyinnyu is a brick masonry building covered in white stucco and with stone in pavements. There is a series of square terraces on both the lower (three terraces) and upper (four terraces) levels. The terraces contain indentations for the planned series of over 500 ceramic plaques. The heavy damage was caused by the 1975 earthquake and repairs to earthquake damages were being completed in 1979. Being the highest, it overtops all other monuments and offers visitors a magnificent panoramic view over Bagan although it is no longer permitted to climb right to the top.
Gawdawpalin Temple
This 60 meter high temple was built in the 12th century by King Narapatisithu. The temple was badly damaged in a 1975 earthquake but has been completely reconstructed. From the upper terrace of the temple, one can leisurely watch the panoramic view of ancient Bagan and the sunset over the scenic beauty of the Ayeyarwaddy River.
Dhammayangyi Temple
The all largest temples of Bagan were built by King Narathu who reigned from 1167 to 1170. The Dhammayangyi Temple is a very large square single storey pyramidal temple with six monumental ascending exterior terraces. There are two inner ambulatories around a solid square central core. The huge and pyramid-shaped Dhammayangyi looks a little clumsy from the distance. The high and narrow arch shaped corridors look like those of European castles. The Dhammayangyi’s brickwork is finely crafted – perhaps it is the finest brickwork in Bagan.
Gubyaukgyi Temple (Myingaba)
The Gubyaukgyi Temple at Myinkaba was built in 1113 AD by Prince Rajakumar, son of King Kyansittha. In form, it is much like the Apeyadana Temple but the richness of its decoration executed in plaster, contrasts with the Apeyadana’s simplicity. Dormer windows lighting the cellar underneath, are set above the stepped pyramid that raises a mitre-shaped tower like that of Ananda Temple. Moreover, a replica of a temple in a slightly different form is set above the vestibule at its western end.
Shwesandaw Pagoda
This pagoda built by King Anawyahta is early 11th century displays a strong Mon influence with a steep stairway directly to the terraces for a view from the upper level.
Tharabar Gate
Tharabar Gate is the main gate of the east wall and the only structure left of the old city built by King Pyinbya. It was built in 849 A.D during the 9th century. The western and northern part of the city wall were washed away by the river. There was originally twelve gates during that time. Tharabar is derived from the Pali term “Sarabhanga” meaning “shielded against arrows”. Although most of the structure is ruined, stucco carvings of the ogres can still be found. The gate is known to be guarded by spiritual beings. On the left is the side of the gate is the brother “Lord of the Great Mountain” and on the right side is the sister “Golden face”.
Bu Pagoda (Bupaya)
Bupaya is standing close to the Ayeyarwaddy River. The name Bupaya comes from its bulbous resemblance to the “Bu or Gourd”, while Paya means pagoda. It is not clear when the original Bupaya was built. Tradition suggests it had its origin during the reign of King Pyusawhti in the 3rd century AD. As a result of the disastrous earthquake of 1975, the old Bupaya fell into the nearby Ayeyarwaddy River and was totally destroyed. The former brick masonry construct has since been replaced by a hallow reinforced concrete structure in 1976-78. The Bupaya is a small stupa setting on a polygonal platform made up of a series of semi-circular terraces overlooking the river. It has long served as a conspicuous landmark for river travelers. The Bupaya is also a favorite place to watch the sunset.
Htilominlo Temple
The Htilominlo Temple was built by King Nadaungmya in 1210 AD, early in his reign to commemorate his selection on this spot as crown prince from among five sons of the king and he became his father’s successor. The Htilominlo Temple is a large three story red brick (with some stones) temple on a low platform. It is originally covered in carved white stucco and some of its exquisite finely detailed plasters still remaining are worth seeing. The temple is similar in design and even in detail to the earlier Sulamani Temple and the Gawdawpalin Temple both built by the king’s father. There are receding square terraces with stupas or spires at each corner on the second and third levels. Each terrace was originally decorated with terracotta plaques. Htilominlo’s imposing central spire rises a bit over 46 meters. The main shrine entrance hall is extended on the eastern side of the structure. There are the remains of fine murals on the interior walls. The damage from the earthquake of 1975 was repaired between1976-1979.
Sale (Sa-Lay)
Salay is an ancient town rich in Myanmar culture. Salay has ancient pagodas which date from the Bagan Period. Visitors to the ancient capital Bagan often make a 20 miles (15 kilometers) trip south to see Salay, an ancient town rich in Myanmar culture. Salay is also on the great Ayeyawady River, like Bagan, another pleasurable way to get there is to go by one of the small motor boats available for hire and which usually leave Bagan from the Bu-Hpaya jetty. Sitting in comfortable cushioned chairs you can watch the river crafts on the big waterway, once the only real life-line of Myanmar, with all the old towns lining its banks.”
Pakokku
A peaceful excursion by boat along the Ayeyarwaddy River from Bagan, Pakokku and its surroundings offer Travellers a unique glimpse into the typical village life in the area. The nearby 19th century town of Pakhangyi has one of the oldest wooden monasteries in Upper Myanmar with 254 teak pillars. Locals produce tobacco, jiggery palm sugar candy and the famous checkered blankets and woven fabric typical of this region.
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